The most highly anticipated event during Paris fashion week was Kanye West's debut fashion line. The show was a very intimate event with only 100 invitations going out to all the powerful players in the industy. What made the front row unique from other typical fashion shows was the sheer amount of other designers and high profile fashion celebrities who came to support the young designer. Famous names such as the former EIC of French Vogue- Carine Roitfeld, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Marie Claire's fashion director Nina Garcia, and controversial fashion photographer Terry Richardson were all in attendance.
The anticiaption for the show was buliding by the minute, with the show running over 30 minutes late. Everyone was anxious to see what West had to offer the industry....
Anja Rubik, the popular Polish model started the show wearing a black leather skirt that hit just above the knee which was paired with a black structured leather jacket. My immediate reaction after seeing the first look was... ISN'T THIS SUPPOSED TO BE A SPRING/SUMMER 2012 RTW LINE?!
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| Kanye West Look #1 |
As the other looks started to come down the runway I increasingly become more confused about the choices in cuts and fabric West had chosen for his show. The models strutted clad in luxurious fox stoles, (some taking up the entire backs of the dresses) and heavy use of leather.
Another major problem with this line was the lack of tailoring. Almost all of the models had on garments that just did not fit correctly and as as result did not look flattering. It was rumored that West pulled a lot of the show together three days before the show! A show usually takes at least 6 months to develop and create, if not longer. Having perfect tailoring is a very important facet of designer collections. It what makes a garment from Macy's different from a couture gown from Dior or Chanel. Tailoring should always be flattering and should accentuate the beauty of a women's body.
West's line seems to be leaning towards sportswear, I definitely saw many influences from some of the fashion shows that Kanye frequents. The one that really stood out was Balmain. The cut out bondage dresses and sleek leather pants looks ripped off from previous Balmain collections.
West's first show was a bit disappointing. If he really wants to be taken seriously in the fashion world he needs to create a more cohesive collection in addition to designing for the correct season. I hope that West continues to grow and come back to fashion in the future with a more evolved and more confident brand.
Additional Looks from West's Show
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One of the challenges Kanye had to face was the stigma of the "celebrity turned designer". Kanye had said before the show,
"Getting the audience to look past its prejudices about “the celebrity designer, the rapper designer. That’s the biggest hurdle,”
The fashion industry is notorious for being a very closed group and it can be very difficult for an outsider to gain recognition or to have the same respect as a designer who has devoted his or her life to the craft. Over the years West has had constant presence at international shows even if he is welcomed or not... (Kanye Crashes PFW). Celebrity lines are usually taken with a grain of salt by insiders in the industry. There are many celebrity brands that have failed, however there are a few celebrities who have been able to break the mold and create a well respected and successful fashion empire.
So what makes some celebrity fashion lines more successful than others? One of the main reasons some lines are successful fashion houses is because the celebrity designer usually puts all of their energy into developing the line. They are not trying to maintain their acting/music career, while developing a perfume, their reality show, AND a fashion line. The brands that have done the best are the ones where it is the only project that the celebrity is working on.
Some Celebrity lines that have got it right....
Jessica Simpson:
Jessica Simpson started her fashion line back in 2008 and has grown to be one of the most successful celebrity fashion lines in the United States. She is slated to be the first celebrity line to have one billion dollars in sales by the end of the year 2011. Her designs reflect her own girl next door style and are set are reasonable prices. Her appeal is the fact that many consumers are able to replicate her sense of style without breaking the bank.
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen- The Row
The Olsen twins have long been seen as style icons and made the Bohemian Chic a popular trend back in 2005/2006. Ashley Olsen has had a lot of hands on experience working in the fashion industry. She had completed a apprenticeship in the design department at Calvin Klein. The sisters debuted The Row in 2007 and has been a staple in on the New York Fashion Week schedule. The designs emphasize simple and modern tailoring and usually a very understated aesthetic, much like the girls themselves (they are known for being very shy and quite with press). The brand is very luxurious, a recent item that created a lot of buzz was a mini crocodile backpack retailing for 39,000 dollars!
Victoria Beckham:
Many of you many know her as Posh Spice. The former Spice Girl has shed her image of a singer and has made a name for herself in the fashion world. Beckham started her line in 2006 with a denim line. The fashion empire eventually evolved into a full ready-to-wear collection filled with luxurious lady-like pieces, (think Kate Middleton). Beckham's line may have been the first to venture into the celebrity fashion trend and has she has gained a lot of respect by the powerful few in the industry.
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